eWire
February 23, 2004
OF SHIPS AND THE SEA
Thomas H. Booth
5315 Donald St.
Eugene, Oregon 97405
541-345-9206
bettyandtom@earthlink.net
OF SHIPS AND THE SEA
It’s safe to say that it was the glamorous success of the “Love Boat” era that prompted the construction of an ever increasing fleet of sea going behemoths - and a big business was born. It’s a competitive business too, and aboard these glittering vessels that sometimes carry more passengers than the population of the ports they visit, there is the magical lure of even more fulfilling amenities. More importantly, numbers prove that these ships are immensely popular, and it’s reported that since 1992 some six million folks have gone to sea in this way. You can’t knock success.
However, for folks not of cruise ship persuasion, for folks who require, even insist, upon a more genuine sea-going experience, there are alternatives to these gigantic vessels. Fortunately, their voices have been heard, and more than a few cargo ship owners have agreed to - as they once did - accept a few passengers, and make unused officer cabins available. The cabins are unused because of maritime modernization, which in turn caused crew reductions, and now many ship owners realize that carrying a few passengers in the redundant quarters can be profitable.
Happily, for those of us who look at working ships with an interest bordering on the sensual, it’s once again possible to set out in the company of a dozen or so (not a thousand or more) kindred spirits, and in company with the ocean, sun, and the stars, voyage across many tempered seas.
The freighters or cargo ships on which these enthusiasts travel come in all shapes and sizes. Some carry bulk cargo, some carry grain, others bear wood products, and others have decks laden with large cargo filled containers. On some of them there’s room for the classical 12 passengers. Others will accept only one or two, and there are others that carry up to 90 passengers. As to ownership, these vessels sail under a variety of flags - German, French, Polish, Greek, British, Dutch, Panamanian, and - sadly - only a few American. With rare exceptions, the freighters that accept passengers adhere to standards that ensure comfort, provide cabins that often surpass cruise ship accommodations, and in company with ship’s officers, passengers sit down to meals that often approach gourmet quality. Some of these vessels sport a small swimming pool, always a modest library, and aboard some there’s a steward who’ll manage a congenial bar. On others the bar will be operated on the “honor system.”
These are the ships that for reasons based on cargo commitments cross all the major seas and move up and down the coasts of all continents. Some of them, like the Bank Line (British) and the Rickmers Line (German), make convoluted, many port call voyages around the world that take 90 to 110 days. Fare for such a voyage is about $110 a day - and as a footnote to the Bank Line, I remember once in Honiara, the Solomon islands, coming upon one of their ships. Permission was given me to come aboard, and during the ensuing and excellent lunch I fell in with her 12 passengers. Without exaggeration I can say that they were the most contented of people. This is not an unusual reaction.
For shorter voyages there are transatlantic runs that take 8-14 days. There are even shorter ones that move about the Caribbean, others that run between European ports, Middle-East ports and in Asia. But there are conditions to be met. Cargo is king, and as a result departure time can be changed, ports of call added or eliminated, and dates of arrival fall into the “iffy” zone. Passengers, therefore, should have flexible expectations. Then there is the matter of age requirements. Most ships that carry 12 or fewer passengers impose an age limit of between 75 and 82. But on ships that carry more than 12, a doctor is usually aboard, and the age limit does not apply. A good example of this is the French freighter Aranui, which sails from Papeete, Tahiti, and with about 60 passengers makes an amenity filled 17 day voyage to the mysteriously beautiful Marquesas islands of French Polynesia.
The easiest source of information - and for buying tickets - is through an agency specializing in freighter travel. Note the sidebar at the conclusion.
But, while I admire with reverence the prominent freight lines which run between continents there is a much more elemental fleet of ships that sail from the District Centers of island groups all over the South Pacific, Micronesian Pacific, and in S.E. Asia. They must not be ignored. These vessels, a mixture of island traders, copra boats, mission vessels, government field service ships, and inter-island ferries, rarely appear in travel brochures and are largely unknown to travel agents.
Some of these ships provide all amenities in air-conditioned splendor. Some have comfortable cabins and provide all meals while others offer neither and require passengers to come aboard with an open mind, their own - easily obtained -food, and be prepared to sleep on a covered deck. This for the adventurous, the resilient is akin to going camping at sea.
To accomplish such a voyage, fly to a District Center Port, such a place as Papeete, Tahiti, Suva, Fiji, Apia, Samoa, Rarotonga, the Cooks, Honiara, the Solomons, the list goes on and on, Take Tahiti for example. Wander down to the Docks at Papeete’s harbor. Go aboard any ship that looks interesting. Ask the Captain, Mate or Steward where they’re going, for how long, and if you can see a cabin, or what is called the deck accommodations. You’ll be in for some pleasant surprises and a few that won’t fill your soul with joy. But, if you like what you see and hear, go to their agent’s office and buy a ticket, which -with exceptions - is inexpensive.
Still, folks have to come ashore at some point and when it comes to shore side accommodations in the islands of the Pacific - including the Philippines and Indonesia - I’m pleased to say that there are inns, guest houses, and pensions in the most remote places that, without resorting to Club Med glamour, provide sustenance and hospitality. These are the sort of places that exist out of practical need, the kind used by transient island people, administrators, sailors, missionaries, medical folk, the odd scoundrel - and a few serious travelers.
In some of these inns guests are permitted whatever level of libido, laughter or fellowship they require. In others there’s an abundance of hospitality, but elemental behavior is frowned upon, and other than choir practice, nothing much happens at night. Thanks - or blame - for this austerity dates back to the early missionaries, who arrived with heavy loads of severe fundamentalism - and “Mother Hubbards” for the women to wear. And so, with regard to South Pacific sea and land ventures, permit me to make a few sample suggestions.
FRENCH POLYNESIA
There are lots of opportunities here. For example, consider the two day trading boat voyage from Tahiti to Rangiroa - one of the 69 atoIls in the Tuamotu Group. There you can visit one of the distant islets in the lagoon and book yourself into a pension or private home and live within the discipline of island life. Here you can wander among nesting birds, stroll palm fringed beaches, and swim in multi-hued water - and it won’t cost a bundle, Better yet you’ll enter the animated life of Polynesians, who enjoy nothing more than a good party.
The COOK ISLANDS
For much the same environment, choose an outer island of the Cooks. Try Aitutake, Atiu, Mauke or Mitiaro, and to them - because of the quality of ships - I’d advise flying. Aitutake, with its magnificent lagoon, its pristine beaches, is a jewel. There are plenty of hotels, inns and guest houses to choose from. Here the US dollar goes a long way, and for a spirited night out don’t neglect Ralphie’s Bar and Grill. The other mentioned islands are even more elemental, but lack the glamour of good beaches.
TO THE NORTHERN COOKS BY SEA
There is a ship called the Tai Moana that sails from Rarotonga and makes its way 800 miles north to the atolls of Penrhyn, Manihiki and Rakahanga. Length of the trip is about 12 days, and the fare, with crew share cabin, food included, comes to about $US 275. But before going any further I need to make it clear that the voyage to these “back of beyond” islands should be done by the most flexible and hardiest of travelers. The ship is small, the seas can be rough, and the food is far from gourmet. But the islands are superb.
At Penrhyn, the only island where ships can enter the lagoon and tie up at a dock, the ship will pause a pair of days. This allows enough time to meet the locals, examine the technique of black pearl farming, and enjoy the lonesome beauty of the island. Manihiki (said to be one of the most beautiful atolls in the world ) and Rakahanga come next, both places where the ship is forced to lay off and use lighters for cargo and let passengers to go ashore. This is an epic trip.
SAMOA
From Western Samoa’s island of Upolu, take the ferry across to the more undeveloped island of Savaii, which is said to be “the ancient soul of Polynesia.” Here a rental car is necessary for visiting beaches, villages and seeking out the beauty of the island. Inexpensive and animated inns are at hand here. Check out the Vaisala Hotel, which, with good measures of local color, animation, and plentiful island food, is for $60 a double hard to beat - and it’s right on a good beach.
Then, at a 65 mile distance from Pago Pago in American Samoa, there’s a pair of gem like islands called the Manuas. To them, because of a scarcity of ships, you’re better off flying - 65$ round trip. These are high islands, lush verdant places ringed with good beaches, and quietly inhabited by 500 Samoans, who along with Congregational churches, live in two island style villages - and for a bit of history, it was here on Ofu, Olesega, and T’au that in 1925 Margaret Mead did some of her research. There’s been little change since.
On Ofu there’s a five unit inn only steps from the airstrip that provides plenty of serene hospitality and good Polynesian food. Rates, food included, will be about $60 a double
TONGA
From Nuku’alofa, the capital of Tonga, an inter-island ship called the Olovaha sails north to the low lying Ha’apai atolls, and 12 hours later fetches up at green and lovely Pangai, on the island of Lifuka. Fare with cabin ( bring your own food ) will be $20. We stayed at the Selutete Guest House - and happily. The island food, reef fish, taro, breadfruit and baked bananas were good. The rooms were tiny but the beer was cold, and the family was warm and friendly. Rates there were $30 a double, food included. Bear in mind, however, that the church inspired peace and tranquility of the Ha’apai’s will either drive you crazy or fill your soul with heavenly bliss.
THE SOLOMON ISLANDS
One of the best short sea voyages in the Pacific sets out from Honiara, capital of the Solomons on Guadalcanal. Here the trading vessel Iuminao, which sports a couple of first class cabins complete with good plumbing and small refrigerator, sails on Sunday and arrives in Gizo 24 hours later. Bring your own food.
En route the ship makes 11 stops at away from it all islands, where the beauty is profound. On arrival at Gizo, a remote, very pretty small island, there is a comfortable hotel. I’d suggest you spend the night there, and in company with the other guests - mostly Australian - enjoy a spirited cocktail hour, followed by a good dinner. The ship sails the next day, and after 36 hours, returns to Honiara. Fare will be about $90 round trip
MICRONESIA
One of the most unusual sea trips in the Pacific originates on the island of Pohnpei in Micronesia. This is the sailing of the Government Field Service ship Micro Glory. If you can mesh with her schedule, which is rarely firm, you’ll have, at least, an eleven day voyage that will include Kosrae, Pingelap and the two exotic islands of Nukuoro and Kapingamarangi. The purpose of this trip is to load cargo, sell trade goods, check births and deaths, or respond to a medical emergency. You can however expect to be greeted with song, flowers and hospitality. Fare will be about $250, which includes cabin and meals.
So it goes for freighters and for island craft, and so it goes for settling into off beaten path guest houses and inns that are run by islanders. who will be as curious about you as you are about them. However, duty prompts me to assure travelers not inclined to sea travel, that thanks to the allies and enemies of WW II, the airstrips built in those days usually allow for good domestic air service. One way or another, by sea or air, beauty and adventure - both daunting and benign - await. Bon voyage.
SIDE BAR
For long distance freighter travel information contact the following:
Freighter World Cruise Inc. - 180 South Lake Ave. Ste 335, Pasadena, Ca. 91101. Phone - 626-449-9573.
Ford’s Travel Guides. 19448, Londeliis St. Northridge, Ca. 91324
For the sailing of the Field Service ship Micro Glory out of Pohnpei, contact The office of Government Field Service Vessels - Kolonia, Pohnpei 96941. Federated States of Micronesia.
For the sailing of the Cook Island ship, Tai Moana, contact the TapiTaio Shipping Co, - Avarua, The Cook Islands